KW Homestead

Pasture Raised Poultry & Edible Landscaping Plants Since 2013

Tag: homesteading (page 4 of 4)

choosing a chicken: standards vs. bantams

i often wonder about different people’s motivations for choosing certain breeds of chickens. some choose chickens that lay many eggs, others choose chickens that are showy and beautiful to look at. still others choose chickens to be their friends or those that are friendly around adults and children. many choose chickens who are better at foraging and taking care of themselves.

i’ve mentioned before that we have both standard chickens and bantam chickens. i wanted to take some time to describe the differences (that we’ve experienced) between these birds of a feather, just in case you’re interested in how their traits may fit into your lifestyle as a chicken owner.

the standards that we have are barred rock (black and white speckled) and buff orpington (which look much like any regular chicken except they are golden/tan in color). our standard rooster, rex, is a barred rock and looks much like the bird on the rex goliath wine bottle.

our bantam chickens are all mutts. each of our females are primarily black, some with varying neck colors such as white speckled or golden banded. our bantam rooster, roosty, has a lovely, deep green tail and an orange-red body and neck.

feeding time: our bantum rooster, roosty, with standard and bantum hens

feeding time: our bantam rooster, roosty,
with standard and bantam hens

now, before i compare their observed personalities and traits, i think i should mention the nicknames that jason and i have given the different breeds. we got the buffs and the barred rocks a few weeks before the bantams and spent our first few weeks as chicken owners comparing these two breeds. i started calling the buffs the “pilgrims” and the barred rocks the “blackfeet,” partly on account of their gray legs (while the buffs have cream colored legs) and partly because of the blackfeet native american tribe. our joke was that when the pilgrims showed up in north america, they were less survival fit and “stupider” than the resident native americans. this reflected in our flock, where the barred rocks seems to be less ditsy and clueless about the basics of finding food and avoiding walking feet.

once the bantams arrived, we continued the nicknames, but quickly realized that the blackfeet couldn’t hold a candle to the survival skills of the smaller, speedier chickens.

after many months of observation and chicken chasing, i have a few thoughts about standard chickens vs. bantams. keep these in mind as you make choices about the makeup of your flock.

the standards (barred rocks and buff orpingtons):

  • slower and easier to catch if they escape. they are also much more reliant on their “homebase” than the bantams and if they happen to escape stay close to the others inside the fence rather than laying low and hiding in bushes.
  • pushier and less skiddish of humans. when it’s feeding time, they are always underfoot!
  • less busy finding their own food in the earth. don’t get me wrong, all chickens do the scratch-and-step-back but i find the standards spend much more time lazying around the yard than the smaller guys.
  • they tend to go into the house to roost later in the day than the bantams.
  • rex draws much more attention to himself than roosty does. he likes to show off and is quick to stand in defense of his ladies and put on a big show.
  • they move differently than the bantams, for sure. they are much more dinosaur-like, both in their walk and in their features. to me they are very t-rex like (and lean forward clunkily when they run).
  • the breeds we have are good layers, with each hen laying around 250 eggs per year.
  • rex is a good, loud crower!
  • they have average or medium sized eggs that range from tan to light brown in color.
rex, our barred rock rooster, spending some time with his lady friends

rex, our barred rock rooster, spending
some time with his lady friends

the bantams:

  • much faster runners and expert dodgers. on the occasions that they have escaped they have tried to roost in bushes and fallen trees and have waited a long while to come back out of hiding. jason is fast and not afraid to dive for a chicken and yet these skills have rarely earned him a feathery prize! i am constantly amazed at how fast those little buggers can move.
  • prefer to fly under the radar when feeding time comes. the standards pick on them a little but they stay at the fringe of their yard when any humans happen in. they are very aware of where we are at all times and will always stop eating to run away from us, unlike the standards.
  • almost always busy searching for little snacks or taking dirt baths. they never seem idle and are constantly on the lookout.
  • they tend to head into the house to roost at the first sign of dark.
  • roosty doesn’t have much “bark” but jason and i suspect he has a whole lot of “bite” when it comes down to taking care of his flock. his spurs are also 3 inches long and he is such a fast little mover that i am more wary of him than of rex, whose spurs are still coming in and only an inch long.
  • the bantams move like sure-footed little quails who seem to float over the ground when they run. they appear to be dainty and are more lady-like rather than their lumberjack-like roomates.
  • our bantam hens are not as prolific as the standards, and we only get a few eggs per week from the whole flock. this could be due in part to their age; my father had many of these hens for years before giving them to us and the standards have just now matured and started their adult cycle.
  • my father has also observed over the years that many of the hens are good mothers, even raising standard chicks if they hatched them. they are very protective and good at teaching their babies how to be chickens. this is a trait to look for in chickens, with not all breeds (or individuals) having the mothering instinct as strongly.
  • roosty is also a good, loud crower but he sounds as if he hasn’t yet gone through puberty. his crow is much higher pitched!
  • their eggs are smaller than standard eggs, but the yolk is about the same size with less egg white. their eggs are off-white in color.

overall, i would choose a similar situation if we had to make the choice about chickens all over again. the standards give us many eggs and the bantams are lovely to look at while also being great mothers for our future chickens. they both provide meat for our household and they are equally valuable, in different ways. the standards eat more, but also produce more.

we love having a mixed flock. or rather, two flocks living harmoniously together. the roosters do not fight–perhaps because they do not bother or claim each others’ hens and all chickens roost and eat together. it is one fun and complex extended family we have in our front yard, and it’s perfect for us.

we recommend raising both standards and bantams, and trying them out together (at least at first) to see if they can co-exist peacefully and productively!

.:.

Hugelkulture: Which Wood is Best?

What kind of wood should I use for my hugelkulture or wood-core bed? Whichever you have access to. With a few exceptions of course.

This question seems to come up all the time after someone discovers the benefits of rotting wood in a hugelkulture bed and permaculture garden. Is pine okay? Oak? Softwood vs. Hardwood, alleopathic woods, fresh or dead? The list goes on, and I’ll try and answer some of the most common ones today.

Maple Hugelkulture

Maple filled hugel bed by of Paul Wheaton at permies.com

First, a general rule.

Use whatever wood you have easy access to.

Now, an exception to that rule.

Don’t use alleopathic or rot resistant woods like cedar, black walnut, and black locust.

Okay, that makes it easy. Pine is okay for hugel beds, so is oak, maple, sweetgum, apple and most any other species of tree around.

That includes softwood species as well. These trees, like pine, will typically rot faster than hardwood trees in a hugelkulture mound. This can be good or bad depending on your garden design, and your wants and needs. Sepp Holzer, the father of Hugelkulture, uses primarily softwoods on Krameterhof in the Alps because those are the trees most readily available.

For example, a hugelkulture bed that is used to support and establish a perennial system of trees, shrubs, and bushes, can be made of quicker rotting wood. This is because once the wood is completely decomposed into rich hummus, the deep roots of the plants are so well established that the benefits of the hugel mound are less needed and appreciated by the system at large.

But what about acidity? Isn’t pine acidic?

Yes and no. Pine trees, especially in the Eastern United States, are often found in old fields and clearings as a pioneer species. Their needles are full of ascorbic acid (vitamin c) and can acidify soils. This is useful in some circumstances, around acid lovers like blueberries and azaleas, but can be detrimental in other areas if allowed to swing the pH too far to the acid side.

So, you should avoid pine trees in your hugelkulture raised bed, right? No, while pine needles are acidifying, the wood is not, and neither are the brown needles. Pine is fine, just don’t fill your bed with bales of green needles.

black walnut hugelkulture

Black walnut and hugelkulture do not mix
Photo courtesy of Jim Linwood

Okay, what about these alleopathic trees that should be avoided in the garden? These are plants that for one reason or another (usually to provide an ecological advantage) inhibit the growth of nearby plants with chemical warfare. The most famous of these is black walnut, which secretes juglone, a chemical only a select number of species can tolerate. Pecans also secrete juglone, though not as much as black walnut.

Some other plants to avoid are the cedars, and black locust which is highly rot resistant and composed of high levels of fungicidal components, not the best combo for a hugelkulture or woody bed. These woods are also generally higher value woods and have many other uses, such as firewood (black locust firewood may be the best firewood available), cooking and smoking, furniture making, wood carving, and fence posts.

So, what is best material for a hugelkulture bed? Whatever you have lying around–it will all rot–some just at a different pace than others. The most important thing is to not over analyze it and start digging, because regardless of the wood chosen, it takes time to start to decompose and harvest nitrogen before you can see the effects of the wood core in your garden or permaculture system.

What woods have you used in your hugel beds? Let us know in the comments if some worked better than others in certain applications.

Winter Homestead Chores: Splitting Wood, One Cord at a Time

In my last post on Winter Homestead Chores I talked about using the shortened days of winter to hibernate, contemplate, and observe nature and your land. For some, especially those of us in colder climes, the best hibernation and contemplation is accomplished while enjoying the warm heat of a wood stove on a cold winter night. But wood stoves, while saving money and energy, require an investment of energy (or money) before they pay toasty dividends.

Basically, you can’t burn without wood. Dry wood. And split wood dries faster, and is easier to carry and load into a hot wood stove.

Split Wood, Chestnut Oak

A little more than a cord of firewood.

So today I grabbed my wood splitting tools, and made a nice dent in our stacked pile of chestnut oak rounds. I’ve heard different names for different tools, but today I grabbed a metal splitting maul, or “go-devil,” and a light single-sided ax. Emma’s father made and gave us a wooden maul for splitting wood this Christmas, but I haven’t used it yet. It’s sheer size should help with some of the knottier and hard to split wood we come across, though.

After cleaning out a section of our corn crib turned woodshed, i got into a groove and split about a cord of firewood. One important thing to note when splitting wood is to take some breaks (preferably with sweet potato ginger soup), and to stop when you’re tired. Splitting wood when tired is dangerous and a good way to end up observing the inside of hospital room, or worse.

But if you pay attention to basic safety, splitting wood is a great way to spend a winter afternoon on the homestead. Not only is there a great feeling of accomplishment as each log succumbs, but the addition to the family’s energy independence and reduced fuel costs–as well as the exercise–make wood splitting a great winter homestead chore.

Winter Homestead Chores: Where to Start?

The leaves have changed, fluttered from the sky, and now coat the forest and garden floor with a thick layer of organic mulch. Winter is here. For many, this means little more than bundling up, celebrating the holidays, and mulling over seed catalogs picking out new experiments for next year’s spring garden. But while these are wonderful things, there are many winter chores and homestead activities that can still be accomplished. From splitting wood for the wood burning stove to winter gardening pursuits, inspiration and opportunity abounds in the winter landscape.

Winter Homestead Chores

Photo courtesy Chad Cooper

Yet while there are many winter chores to be done, remember to take the time and enjoy the season with friends and family. The great thing about winter chores is that they are not usually too pressing, and can be easily budgeted into our schedules.

It isn’t wise to try and tackle winter activities around the homestead like you would your summer gardening chores. Especially around the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year, daylight is at a premium and winter is traditionally the time of resting. Instead of compiling long to do lists of winter home maintenance or DIY projects in the cold, plan for plenty of time to contemplate both your life, and your land.

Winter is an excellent time to follow one of permaculture’s most useful tools. Observation.

Observe the rising and setting locations of the low winter sun, watch the long shadows, and maybe plan the perfect location for your new winter garden beds. The forests are easier to enter and navigate in winter, and are great places to look for patterns and enjoy nature.

Winter homesteading offers both challenges and opportunities, but remember that this is the time of year to recharge and relax to get ready for the ramping up of spring soon to come, and to reflect on the seasons that have passed.

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